Aventuras Mexicanas con El Esposo y Hijo Dos: Días 5-8, “Pueblo Mágico” Aquismón

I’ll be honest: I’d never heard of a Pueblo Mágico. Apparently it’s a special designation conferred in Mexico by the government–though state or federal, we never learned.

You could quibble with the colorlessness of their sign…but the rest of the place made up for that.

Word of warning. You know those really talky blog posts I sometimes do? This one isn’t that. I have pics to share!

Like this one, showing how picturesquely steep the village streets are.

Our first day there, all I really did was walk around and revel in the beauties of the place.

If my neighbor HERE painted their house like this, I’d hate it. But here? Fits right in.
Ditto. And you gotta love that hillside behind.

Not only the houses, but the yards themselves spoke of people who loved color and design.

Yes, that is a “bush” made of deep blue glass bottles! (Ukrainians would love this backyard.)

Oh, and the gardens???

Nothin’ much…just your average 4-colored bouganvillea vines…

Carved out of the base of the jungly cliffs of the region, the village still hosted what looked like some magnificent old growth.

Hola, Guapo Viejo.

We stayed one night in one teensy little hotel, directly above an alley bustling with vendors…

…and two more in another small place, even more modest, with a very sweet courtyard. Pretty sure we were the only guests in both.

Again with the color!

The tree shading El Esposo in this picture was bursting with blossoms. Hijo Dos assured me that, yes–that’s a mango tree, meaning that these…

…are actually the TEENSIEST baby mangoes ever!

You could tell that the citizens of Aquismon had a lot of pride in their village. I saw zero trash, and this sign on a public wall explained why:

“If you have culture and pride, don’t litter”

We made two excursions from Aquismon. The first involved getting up before daybreak, and driving up, up, up a twisty road into the mountains behind town…in order to walk down, down, down 600 steps to a giant hole in the ground.

This.

Not just any hole, though. This is El Sotano de Los Golondrinas, literally, Cellar of the Swallows.

Photo courtesy of Hijo Dos, who got himself roped up to peer into the depths from the edge. Eek.

Gazillion birds spend the night there, and at daybreak, come swirling out again. If you’re lucky. Sometimes, if it’s cloudy, they decide to sleep in, and you’re left just staring at their giant hole. Which is, admittedly, pretty cool: 1600 feet deep (512 m); the deepest cave shaft in the world, and the second-largest cave in Mexico.

Fellow tourists waiting to photograph the birds. Not a very comfy seat, that limestone.

We were semi-lucky: enough birds swirled out for us to be able to ooh and ahh and call it a swirl (though not exactly sky-blackening).

And now…back up those 600 steps!

Next day’s excursion was a little further afield: Cascada Tamul, the highest waterfall in the region. We learned we could either hike to it–with instructions that sounded a bit iffy for folks like us with rental cars and bad knees–or rent a spot in a lancha and paddle up toward it.

We chose the lancha, with a half-dozen fellow tourists, from Mexico City.

The trip wasn’t far, maybe 30 minutes of paddling, but it started spectacular and stayed that way.

We all got out and walked around as our boat captain hauled the boat over the only rapids on this stretch.

When we got to the actual falls themselves, so many other boats were there, full of people taking photos, it was actually an anticlimax.

A very pretty one–don’t get me wrong. And imagine what it looks like at high water season!

Truly, though, I was more captivated by the journey than the destination. Especially the fluted limestone…

…which I couldn’t stop taking photos of. Even though I was supposed to be paddling.

Such shapes! Such colors! OK, you get the idea.

But probably THE COOLEST part of the excursion was the Cueva de Agua (Water Cave) we stopped at on the way back downstream. Our captain pulled the boat over to let us all troop up some rough steps, then even more steps, up the bank…

This isn’t the river. Where’s all this water coming from??

…to this. Exactly as advertised: it’s a cave full of water sprung straight up from the earth. And warm.

Just don’t think about any of those giant stalactites dropping on your head.

I wish, oh how I wish, we could’ve seen it without anyone else there, as we did the Puente de Dios at Tamasopo. But being part of a group, we didn’t have a choice. Luckily folks were nice, and gave each other plenty of space in there.

Afterwards, waiting for everyone to have their swim, we enjoyed sitting in the cascading creek from that magical cave.

I am LITERALLY sitting in this waterfall pool to take this photo of Hijo 2.

This photo of that creek pouring into the river captures the whole experience better than I can describe.

But, lest you can’t quite believe what that photo is showing, here’s the same waterfall, looking up from the river.

(with El Esposo’s hat in the lower corner)

And one more:

(I did warn you about the pics)

Back in Aquismon, I walked around some more, soaking up that cute little town. I even found a few ugly things, like these drying intestines at a carniceria (butcher’s):

…but for intestines, they’re still pretty cool-looking.
Buenas noches…

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