Actually, Cortes Islanders would probably prefer that “quirky” label, while we found Quadrans (Quadrants?) plenty cordial. Either way, both islands, between BC’s mainland and big Vancouver Island, became big highlights of our British Columbia wanderings in 2018, and we were overjoyed to wander back.

With a week to spend, between our Bella Coola adventures and our visit with our friends in Vancouver, we headed over to Horseshoe Bay for the big ferry to Nanaimo. BC ferries are SO nice. And, unlike Washington State’s they run on time. And they actually run! (#ferryEnvy).

Since these critters have been suffering through a terrible die-off in the Salish Sea, I was super encouraged by these guys.

After our 90-minute ride to Nanaimo, we drove a couple of hours north to Campbell River for groceries, then a much shorter crossing on a much smaller boat to Quadra Island. The We-Wai-Kai Campsite there is run by the First Nations People of the same name. Pleasant place, and pleasantly close to Rebecca Spit, a Provincial Park perfect for short bike rides and strolling.

Much of Quadra, we came to remember, is a bit steep for biking, at least for a couple whose combined age is edging close to 143 years. Since we’d be passing back from Quadra automatically on our return from Cortes…

…we put a pin on some hikes for our return , and headed over to our old Cordial friend…

On this 40-minute ride (reminiscent of our Lopez Island commute), we were treated to a pair of humpback whales. (Too far for good photos, but great views through binoculars.)

For our picnic lunch, we defaulted back to Manson’s Landing, remembered from 7 years ago.

Such healthy-looking tidal creatures! No sea stars…

This trip, instead of springing for the extraordinary, but expensive Hollyhock Retreat Center, The Mate and I stayed in a modest motel with a kitchen. It was a stone’s throw from a set of community trails we’d missed last time…

…not to mention an enormous, clear lake, shallow & warm enough for real swimming.

That huge log and those background cliffs, speak of Cortes’ drama. But its Friday Market, complete with music, homemade treats and upcycled clothing, speaks of its community. “Cordial” indeed. I didn’t want to interrupt the vibe by taking photos.

Next day, The Mate and I went for a hike to immerse ourselves in more natural drama. Not only did we find that same “saltwaterfall” that astounded me in 2018…

…we found purple sea stars! So many healthy specimens!

Returning to Quadra–the ferry workers kindly squeeeeeezed us onto the boat–

…we determined to find an extra-special way to spend the day, because it was our wedding anniversary.

First we found a fairly level hike to a lake; later, we drove to a deserted cove for another picnic. I could write a whole blog post about Peanut Butter & Honey sandwiches…

We’d hoped to spend our anniversary night at the sweet inn we stayed in in 2018, but they were full. So we settled for dinner there.

Meanwhile–on that quirkiness question? Look what we found lurking around the parking lot of our Quadra motel!

There were about a dozen of these, obviously by the same artist who made that campground whale…

The final piece of “quirk” that caught my eye on Quadra was this sign outside an ice cream parlor:

Thanks for traveling along! Next time: back to the Big Island–Canadian version. Keep those maple leaves flying!